After my experience in Santa Cruz, I wasn’t looking forward to another Bolivian City. I spent some time looking for quiet and peaceful places instead of party hostels in La Paz, and was thrilled when I found Colibri Camping! Just outside the city, it was a perfect place to escape the crowds and relax in Bolivia, and if you are wondering where to stay in La Paz, it has to be here!
From Sucre I cheated again and took a flight to La Paz – saving precious time. I also overheard someone say that the road to La Paz was blocked with one of the frequent demonstrations on Bolivian roads, so I couldn’t help but feel that I made the right decision.
I had arranged a taxi pick-up through the campsite, as it was around 8pm when I landed, and arriving to a new place in the dark can be an unpleasant experience. The altitude in La Paz hit me straight away. The airport in La Paz is in El Alto, which sits a higher altitude than the rest of the city, so it really does make a difference.
The driver was waiting for me with my name on a sign, and I felt better as we descended around a thousand metres to a more reasonable 3150m above sea level to Jupapina, where Colibri Camping & Eco-lodge is located.
It was dark when I arrived of course, and the site owner Rolando showed me to my tepee. There was a group of people chatting by the outdoor kitchen, and another around the campfire. Rolando kindly introduced me and I instantly felt at home. We all talked for an hour or so and then retired to our respective tents, teepees and cabins. I looked forward to seeing the site in its full glory in the morning!
I have to admit it was chilly in the teepee, but I had plenty of blankets to keep me warm. I woke up around 8am and ventured outside to see what was waiting for me. I wasn’t disappointed! The views were magnificent. Colibri Camping is perched on the edge of a valley, overlooking the bizarrely shaped La Muela del Diablo mountain (the Devil’s Molar), and you could see right down into the valley below.
I had a delicious and plentiful breakfast which was an extra cost, but well worth it, and admired the views as I ate. I loved the little details that made the campsite extra special. There were hammocks set out for relaxing, the shaded benches with electricity sockets that became our makeshift internet café.
The showers were hot, and facilities kept spotlessly clean by the volunteer workers. Previous volunteers had painted bright murals all around the site, and on some of the walls outside – there were a lot of other walls painted in the little town by local school children so this was in keeping with the tradition; it was a refreshing change from the city graffiti I had grown used to.
Although Colibri Camping is a short distance from the city, it felt a world away from hectic La Paz, ana d perfect place for glamping in Bolivia.
Rolando wandered down to the site – he & his partner Emma have their house just above the campsite, so were on hand most of the time, and their volunteers were always on site if I needed anything. We chatted for a while, I really warmed to him with his friendly demeanour, and obvious love of his country as he gave me tips on where to go and what to do while here in Bolivia.
I had planned to do various hiking expeditions during my stay but I was so blown away by the relaxed atmosphere I was more than happy to spend my three nights there just relaxing. I did take a Bolivian Cookery class, taught by a local lady Ampàro, so I didn’t feel too guilty for wimping out of the trekking!
Among the other guests at the site were dynamic overlanders Shannon & Mike of S & M Boilerworks, who were driving their two old Suzuki motorbikes from their home town in Seattle to the bottom tip of Chile. It was fascinating to hear about their journey, and get some great tips for my future travels!
They were fun and chatty and I really enjoyed their company, and was sad to see them go. Colibri camping is perfect for overlanders passing through La Paz, with space for tents and parking for bikes, and even space for a camper van.
The last night I was at Colibri Camping I realised I was the only guest at the site. I was preparing myself for a solitary evening with leftovers from my cooking class and perhaps a film from the comfort of my teepee bed; when Rolando popped down for an afternoon potter around the site.
We chatted, the conversation flowing easily, and he invited me up to the house for tea later on with him & his wife Emma, and the volunteers they have at the site. I was very flattered to be asked, and thrilled to be welcomed so kindly into their home.
Emma was a total delight as well, a fellow Brit who had been swept off her feet by the charming Rolando, and she shared the story of how they met and fell in love. At least her version anyway!
Rolando was adamant there was another version but I liked hers; a tale of a Bolivian mystery man, whose persistence and a series of coincidences (if there is such a thing) brought them together, and they now share the beautiful house overlooking the valley, have two great kids and a menagerie of pets to boot. In the end I stayed for dinner, and I loved every moment I spent in their wonderful home.
I was also interested to learn about their volunteer projects – as well as having a couple of volunteers to care for the campsite, they also run Up Close Bolivia, which organizes volunteer placements to help local communities. I felt very at home here and was sad to leave; but hope to be back in Bolivia later on in my trip, and if time allows to come back to the site & volunteer here. Thank you Rolando & Emma for being such amazing people and thoroughly inspiring. Un abrazo!!
Learn more about the campsite: http://colibricamping.com/
And the volunteer projects here https://www.facebook.com/UpCloseBolivia
Book Colibri Camping on Hostelworld
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I bet the views were amazing. Glad you had lots of blankets to keep you warm. I’d love to check out Colibri Camping overlooking the mountain!
Yes! Sometimes flying is worth the extra cost – especially in this case! 🙂 I loved my teepee too, so homely!
thanks Nicole 🙂 It is an awesome place! And I’m very glad I managed to avoid the road blocks & windy weather!
Ah yes, I always like to have a prepared plan when I arrive after dark – I was definitely glad to have the taxi waiting for me!
Definitely! I am glad Rolando came to save me from my lonely night 🙂
I loved Bolivia too -it was my first country in South America so I really didn’t know what to expect! If you do go back then book a stay at Colibri, you won’t regret it!
Ah yes, Rolando & Emma are what makes Colibri Camping so special – them and the cool teepee, the incredible location and gorgeous views!! 😀
Colibri camping sounds like a wonderful place to stay when looking for a nature retreat in Bolivia. I have stayed in a teepee before (in Canada) and enjoyed it as well. But it sounds like what really makes this place special are the people that run it. What a wonderful experience to get to know the owners on your last night at the place.
Colibri Camping sounds like an incredible experience – I love finding unique accommodation which is an actual experience as opposed to just a place to stay.
Bolivia is one country that really surprised us – we didn’t know what to expect but really enjoyed our time. Such beautiful landscapes and people. I can’t wait to return.
What a nice spot to stay. Nice you weren’t left alone for your final night as well. It’s nice to have some alone time, but it’s nice to talk with new people too. ^^
What a lovely story. Some of these unplanned escapades can be quite interesting. I agree with your comment on landing up at an unknown place in the evening. I have had my share of unpleasantness.
I love the teepee and the views.. what a fun place to stay! Glad you made it there safely!
Phew, it’s a good thing you took that flight! Being stuck on the road would have been a long painful ride! The campsite looks awesome, I love the teepee!