It had been a long time since I’d taken a flight anywhere. My international travel plans had screeched to a halt along with the rest of the world back in early 2020, and now, some 18 months later, I was finally ready to fly abroad again – to the region of Vorarlberg in Austria.
When I say “ready”, I wasn’t really ready, I was terrified. I considered cancelling the trip I don’t know how many times, but as it was a conference I felt I had to attend. I was dreading it. I didn’t have my usual excited butterflies about flying somewhere new, whatever it was in my stomach felt more like lead weights than fluttering insects.
I worried about catching COVID. I worried about all the forms and testing and paperwork I needed. I even worried about packing now that I was so out of practice. Yet, when I arrived in Vorarlberg and took those first tentative steps into a hotel, I slowly started to feel at home again.
Vorarlberg helped me to regain my confidence in travel, and to remember how much I love exploring different countries and cultures. And it did it all with fresh, clean mountain air. It was fabulous.
This post was written in partnership with Visit Vorarlberg as part of the Propel Vorarlberg conference. All opinions are my own.
Why Visit Vorarlberg?
I came to Vorarlberg for a conference, the Propel Conference for bloggers to be precise. I’d only been to Vienna in Austria so I was looking forward to exploring a new area of the country. However, I didn’t know what to expect from Vorarlberg. I hadn’t heard of it before – that’s one of the reasons why the conference was here, to share this place with the rest of the world.
Vorarlberg blew me away. Perhaps it was because it was the first trip I’d taken in 18 months, but I’m pretty sure that nowhere else would have made me feel more welcome, more relaxed and more wowed at the same time!
We stayed in the village of Mellau in Bregenzerwald for the first three nights, including spending a day in Feldkirch, and then in St Gallenkirch in Montafon for another three nights so we could go hiking and have some time to relax. I loved the combination of rural village life, the historic town of Feldkirch and the incredible scenery in Montafon.
Vorarlberg is still a hidden gem for English speaking visitors, but German, Swiss and Austrian visitors flock to this region to take advantage of the fresh mountain air and outdoor pursuits, as well as taking time to relax in the many spa and wellness hotels in Vorarlberg.
Want More Austria Travel Tips?
Check out these blog posts for your Austria vacation inspiration, or click here to read all my Austria blog posts.Where is Vorarlberg?
Vorarlberg is the region of Austria that could have easily been part of another country. The area juts out from Austria, sandwiched in between Germany and Switzerland, with Lichtenstein nestled alongside.
How to Get to Vorarlberg
The closest airports to Vorarlberg are Zurich in Switzerland, Munich in Germany and Innsbruck in Austria. The region is well connected by train to any of these airports, or by car. I flew into Munich and took a transfer to Vorarlberg, which took around two and a half hours.
Things to do in Vorarlberg Austria
Vorarlberg is a varied region, with lakes, mountains, lush valleys, historic towns and rustic villages. I only had a chance to experience a small sample of the awesome things to do in Vorarlberg, but I hope this is enough to get you excited about this amazing place!
Visit Feldkirch
Let’s start with Feldkirch, the second largest town in Vorarlberg.
I was fascinated by the historical buildings, but also the blend of the old and new which was evident across the town, no more so than the striking architecture of the new Montforthaus Cultural Centre alongside the 13th century Schattenburg Castle.
Things to do in Feldkirch
Take a Walking Tour
To learn more about Feldkirch, a themed tour of the town with a knowledgable (and in character) guide is a great way to have fun while seeing the highlights of Feldkirch. Available tours include smuggling, nightwatchmen, a tasting tour and even a historical themed tour with Count Hugo von Montfort or Countess Mechthild themselves!
We took a shortened tour due to time restraints, but the Countess took us around Feldkirchh and told stories of her time with the Count and how Feldkirch was at the time. Ask at the tourist office for what tour options are available and remember to ask for an English-speaking guide as most are in German. Prices start from €14.50 per person.
Walk the Streets
If you prefer to explore independently, Feldkirch is very walkable town. Pick up a map from the tourist office and wander the streets.
Highlights not to miss include:
- the St Nicholas Rectory (Dompfarrkirche Felkirch)
- the Katzenturm bell tower (named the Cat Tower after the model of a lion’s head on the cannons)
- the Town Hall (Rathaus) which has murals on the walls
- Marktplatz which hosts various markets stalls and Christmas markets in December
- and a stroll along the river.
Schattenberg Castle Museum
This 13th-century castle was built by the Montfort family, who founded the town around 1200. The museum is open to the public, check the website for opening times.
Have Lunch or a Drink at Dach-Restaurant E3 im Montforthaus
Montforthaus is a striking modern conference in the centre of Feldkirch, that was named Austria’s Best Convention Centre 2021 by the World MICE Awards.
The building is magnificent, and you can take a guided tour to learn more about the architecture and the convention centre, or head up to the restaurant on the roof for a drink or a bite to eat. As well as getting excellent reviews for the cuisine and service, the rooftop terrace has spectacular views of Feldkirch.
Explore Villages like Mellau
Mellau is a beautiful village surrounded by mountains, about an hour’s drive from Feldkirch. The road to Mellau weaves through the valley, through other pretty Alpine villages with equally beautiful views. But Mellau felt special to me.
From the moment I looked out of my hotel room window and saw the first signs of Autumn in the trees, and the mist that hung like a cloak over the shoulders of the mountain, I couldn’t stop smiling.
I stayed at the Hotel Bären, a blend of Austrian functionality and design mixed with delicious food and featuring a sauna and relaxation room on the top floor. My room was a generous size, with an ensuite bathroom and kitchenette. I didn’t spend much time in my room but I slept like a log!
Most of Mellau’s homes and buildings are built in a traditional way, wooden houses covered with wooden shingles that are either curved like the scales of a mermaid’s tail, or square which is the more modern style.
Not everything in Mellau is traditional. There are striking new buildings that draw on the traditional wood materials, yet in a new and interesting way, using large glass windows and walls. The difference could seem jarring but somehow the new buildings blend in perfectly with the old.
Umgang Self-Guided Walking Tours
In several of the villages of Bregenzerwald, you can take an Umgang. Umgang has a double meaning, with a translation of walking around, and also caring about things. So the umgangs show you places of interest that you can visit in the villages as you walk around and explore. Get more information about the umgangs here.
Eat ALL of the Food
If you’ve read any of my blogs before you’ll probably know how much I love to eat. Food is one of the greatest sources of joy in my life, and I adore trying new foods wherever I go. I already knew that Austrian food is delicious from my time spent eating all of the tasty food in Vienna, but discovering more of the local produce in Vorarlberg was a delight.
Bregenzerwald in particular is known for its farm to table cuisine, and a wide range of cheeses thanks to the milk from the cows which spend their summers filling their multiple stomachs in the alpine pastures.
In the autumn, the cattle return to the valley and if it was a successful year and no cows were lost in accidents over the summer, the people celebrate the “Alpabtriebe” cattle drive by decorating the cows with floral wreaths for their return. This usually takes place in September, although the weather can change the dates at short notice.
The cows produce plenty of milk, and this is used to produce a variety of cheeses, including the local speciality Sura Kees, a low-fat sour milk cheese that tastes a lot better than it sounds! Remember to pack some cheese and cured meats in your lunchbox for tasty hiking snacks.
Speaking of cheese, do not miss kässpätzle – a hearty dish of small pasta dumplings smothered in cheese and usually topped with fried onion and/or bacon pieces. It is one of my favourite things to do in Austria, and a particular speciality of Vorarlberg.
We had a dinner of kässpätzle at Nuze’s Haus in Mellau and it was the cheesiest, most delicious meal I’ve had in a long time. Other local specialities include deer stew (hirschragout), rosti hashbrowns with eggs and bacon, and the good old schnitzel. YUM!
Ride the Cable Cars
During the winter the cable cars transport skiers up to the mountain ski resorts, but most of them run all year so you can hitch a ride and enjoy the splendid views along the way. The tickets aren’t expensive and are well worth the money to be able to zip up to the mountains.
At the top of any cable car you’ll find a restaurant or two so you can have a meal or a snack and admire the views, or take advantage of the walking and hiking trails.
I took two cable cars while I was in Vorarlberg, one in Mellau where I had a quick walk but mainly just gawped at the view, and in Silbertal where we spent the day hiking before tucking into a traditional Austrian feast at one of the restaurants closeby.
Outdoor Activities in Vorarlberg
Hit the Slopes
I visited Vorarlberg in the autumn before the first snowfall, but come in the winter months and you will be rewarded with the best skiing and snowboarding in Austria.
Mellau is part of the Damüls-Mellau skiing area which offers 109 different pistes and 29 ski-lifts and cablecars which take you to the heart of the action. We also visited St Gallenkirch which is in a great location to access the Silvretta Montafon ski resorts and others in the Montafon region.
You are spoilt for choice when skiing in Vorarlberg as there are ski resorts everywhere! The Vorarlberg tourist board website has more information about the ski resorts in Vorarlberg, and advice about opening times, ski runs and more.
Go Hiking
In the winter, Vorarlberg is a top skiing and winter sports destination, but in warmer months the mountains have a maze of trails to explore. From easy walks suitable for children (like the stunning turquoise Silvretta Stausee reservoir walk) to more challenging uphill hikes and scaling mountain peaks like Piz Buin, Vorarlberg is an excellent hiking destination.
Via Ferratas
Not my personal favourite, after an interesting experience in Silvretta, but if you love hiking and climbing then via ferratas may be right up your street! Check the Vorarlberg Tourist board website for more information.
Explore on Two Wheels
If biking is more your thing, you can hire standard or electric bikes to ride up and down the hills or ride along the bottom of the valleys in Vorarlberg. There are bicycle hire shops in almost every town and village, including Mellau.
Take Time for Wellness
With all these activities working your muscles, it is important to take the time to relax and recuperate! There are lots of excellent wellness hotels in Vorarlberg that offer luxurious spa facilities, saunas and a host of massage treatments that will have you feeling ready for another day of action in no time!
Both of the hotels I stayed in had saunas and steam rooms, and the Sporthotel Grandau had a pool and a masseuse on hand that I was delighted to take advantage of. I loved the combination of fresh air and fun alongside relaxation – all of these things are important for our wellbeing after all.
Even just taking time to relax with a cup of tea and a good book classes as wellness too!
I hope this glimpse into the Vorarlberg region of Austria has inspired you to consider this wonderful destination for your next Austria trip. There are so many things to do in Vorarlberg I didn’t have a chance to experience them all, but I hope to go back soon and update this post with more activities when I do!