When conjuring up thoughts of romantic boat rides with a gondolier, one can’t help but think of Venice. But Mexico City? No way! I had no idea before I came here that Mexico City was founded on a network of lakes and rivers. Nowadays in most of the city you would never guess, as the metropolis has swallowed up almost all traces of its river based past. But South of Mexico City, Xochimilco offers a glimpse of Mexico City’s history, through a network of rivers and floating islands. Some call it the Venice of Mexico, and it’s not hard to see why.
When & How to Visit Xochimilco in Mexico City
Xochimilco is better with a group of people. The boats for hire can seat up to 15-20 people, so to hire a boat for one person seems like a waste! I visited for the first time with a friend of mine, and enjoyed a tranquil morning boat ride. The second time I went was on New Year’s Day afternoon, and the river was filled with hundreds of boats all vying for space, each trajinera boat filled with partying Mexicans. I preferred the early morning myself!
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There are 186 km of rivers and channels in Xochimilco, and 9 different places to board a boat trip. Around 3000 boats, known as trajineras, ply the waters here, so it does get pretty busy in peak times!
Which is the Best Embarcadero at Xochimilco?
There are several different docks or embarcaderos where you can hire a boat for Xochimilco. Both times I visited Xochimilco I boarded at the same embarcadero – Belem. My first visit was arranged by Mexico City Tourism, and the second was arranged through my hostel so I feel that this is a good choice. We boarded at Embarcadero Belem, with Trajineras Xochiquetzalli, whose address is Embarcadero Belém, Violeta No. 72, Barrio de Santa Crucita, Xochimilco, Ciudad de México, C.P. 16070; or you can contact them on their Facebook or via their website (in Spanish). We negotiated the hire of the boat for a 2-hour ‘cruise’.
Prices do seem to vary a lot, so try to negotiate as best you can, and if you speak Spanish that helps too! Trajineras Xochiquetzalli offer set packages to visit the famous garden centres on the islands, and to the dubious mini-zoos housing various snakes & amphibians from the rivers, and elsewhere, or you can just cruise around. Keep an eye on the time, as we came back earlier than the agreed time slot, but none of us realised! Two hours is plenty of time to get a good feel for the area, after that, all everything starts to look the same. Be sure to just bring cash, this isn’t a credit card kind of place.
The Xochimilco Boats
The boats at Xochimilco are called trajineras, and are all beautiful, colourful wooden boats. The base is painted red and yellow, with some blue or green, and there is usually a table down the centre of the boat with painted chairs to sit on. Each boat has its own name, written on a board across the front of the boat, forming a decorative arch which stands higher than the roof.
The Boat Ride in Xochimilco Mexico City
Our ‘gondolier’ boat driver, or trajinero, was Jonathan, and he deftly hauled the heavy wooden pole around to steer us gently through the water. I had a go myself, and it was much harder than it looked! The pole itself was so heavy I couldn’t even lift it out of the water, so after nearly crashing into the bank, Jonathan took back control. Some of the drivers had been doing it all their lives, others were just beginning to learn. Jonathan said he’d been doing it for a couple of years now.
We stopped a passing boat-load of mariachis for a song, they charge 100-120 pesos to serenade the boat, and some even climb aboard so you get an up-close experience! I loved it, as cheesy as it was, this seemed very touristy but actually most of the boats we saw were filled with locals; drinking and dancing away to the music.
Smaller boats pass by, sliding alongside the trajineras and selling snacks, jewellery, flowered headbands and textiles. Then, amid the madness, the residents of the floating islands came and went, and worked on their own boats, seemingly oblivious to the madness around them – or some hitting the water before rush hour!
Optional Stops in Xochimilco
Along the banks of the islands you will find the best garden centres in the city. Rich, fertile soil from the river bed nurtures a variety of plants, when we were there around Christmas time, rows and rows of poinsettia, or Nochebuena (Christmas Eve flower) as it’s known in Mexico. We also stopped off at a mini-zoo which I didn’t really enjoy – a selection of snakes and amphibians, and even a baby crocodile were in tiny glass enclosures, and paraded out to be man-handled. If you don’t fancy that then you can skip it and stay on the water.
On most routes you will pass the rather creepy Isla de Muñecas (Doll Island), or an homage to it. Legend has it, a young call drowned in the river, and used to come back and haunt the residents. One man decided to bring her a doll to appease the belligerent spirit, and continued to collect these decidedly creepy gifts. Later, other people added to the collection, and now hundreds of the dolls stare at you from the banks.
The morning boat ride was one of my favourite things I did in Mexico City, and totally unexpected. It was a great escape from the hustle and bustle of the city, and although it was busy in the afternoon, it still felt a world away.
Food at Xochimilco
You can bring whatever you like onto the boats, so you can come prepared with snacks, drinks, and whatever food you fancy. Some embarcaderos will arrange a barbecue on the boats for you, and provide beers and drinks for an additional cost – if you plan to do this it is best to contact the embarcadero in advance. There are also boats passing by with snacks to buy – typical Mexican food like tamales, corn on the cob, and sweet snacks too.
Top Tips for visiting Xochimilco Mexico City
This isn’t everyone’s cup of tea, and a good command of Spanish helps, as do firm negotiation skills, to avoid being overcharged. Be sure to clarify what is included, and how much the additional drinks/snacks are.
Go early for a relaxing, peaceful visit, or at the weekend in a group for a crazy, busy, party atmosphere!
Take your own drinks, snacks and music, or buy them on the boat. You can even arrange barbecues on the boats, just email the collective for information & rates at [email protected]
Be sure to go to the bathroom before boarding, there are no toilets on board!
Take plenty of cash with you, as you can’t pay by card here.
Bear in mind that anything sold on the river will be much more expensive than it costs on the streets – but it’s the experience you pay for!
You could combine this with a visit to Coyoacan, also south of the city centre.
How to Get to Xochimilco
Unfortunately, there is no quick or easy way to get to Xochimilco independently. Public transport will take around 2 hours from the city centre to the boats, or you could take an Uber across Mexico City to get you there in 45 minutes to an hour, depending on traffic.
Getting to Xochimilco on Public Transport
Take the blue line metro to the last stop Tasqueña, then change to the tren ligero (light train) and take that to the last stop Xochimilco. The metro costs $5 for a ticket, and to ride the train you have to buy a $20 peso rechargeable card, which includes 1 journey on the train. You then top up your card to pay for additional journeys, which cost $3 pesos. The card can be used for multiple people, so 1 card for $20 pesos plus 1 x $3 peso per journey would be $23 pesos for 2 people one way. An Uber might cost anywhere from $100 to $250 pesos depending on the time of day and demand.
If that seems like too much trouble, check out these Xochimilco tours with GetYourGuide:
Where to Stay in Mexico City
I stayed in Hostel Home, and loved it! Hostel Home is in the Roma Norte (North Roma) area of Mexico City, and is close to tons of restaurants and bars, but on a quiet safe street.
If you prefer to stay in a hotel, I highly recommend Chaya B & B Boutique hotel, which has lovely comfy beds and a beautiful rooftop terrace with hammocks. It is in the Centro Historico, close to the Palacio de Bellas Artes.
Or check the options on Airbnb. If you have never used Airbnb before, use this link to sign up & get up to $40 credit to use on your first trip! Read more about the Airbnb first time discount code or click below for your Airbnb coupon.
I enjoyed my two trips to Xochimilco in Mexico City, personally I preferred the quiet morning floating down the river as it was so peaceful. Have you been, or would you like to go? I’d love to hear your thoughts in the comments!
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Thank you to Mexico City Live for arranging my first trip to Xochimilco. That trip was complimentary, but views, as always, are my own.
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Tales of a Backpacker is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. I only recommend goods and services I believe are useful and reliable.Last updated: January 9, 2020